The West Highlands train doesn't have a first class so I'd reserved a regular seat anyway as the information person in Glasgow said that the train was often quite full once we got past Fort William. I was disappointed to see that the seat was the aisle side of a 4-seater and, according to the fellow sitting on the other side NOT on the water side. So I looked to see if any 1-seaters on the water side were not reserved and, finding one, moved. Actually though it turned out he was wrong anyway--there were beautiful water views on both sides and had I been on the original side I would have had a great view of the "Harry Potter" viaduct at Glenfinnan. I actually tried to take several photos out of the train with my Blackberry but the train was moving fast and every time I snapped I found I'd only got trees But I did get two fairly clear shots.
This was my first glimpse of a Highland loch.
And Highland mist on a large loch just near Tulloch.
I arrived at Mallaig just after 3 p.m. to driving rain. It seems that every time I arrive at a railway station (Edinburgh, Glasgow and now Mallaig) it's to driving rain. But the rain only lasted a few moments and then I started walking along the harbour road to my b&b. Mallaig was absolutely lovely. My b&b, Western Isles, was a simple bungalow with six rooms I think. Mrs. Watt bustled to the door as I arrived and with a cheery "come away in" she took my rollaway and showed me my room upstairs. It was a simple but very comfy room with a view of the harbour.
This was the view from my window. You can see how the road was already drying after the rain shower and the sky was clearing. They have a saying in the West Highland--if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes. That was quite true for almost my entire stay there.
I really like the way that the UK b&bs have a kettle in the room and not a coffee maker (as I don't drink coffee, only herbal stuff), long life milk and biscuits. As I always carry my own herbal tea and coffee substitute around, it means I can make my own "cuppa" right in my room. So comforting. My "private" bath was not actually in my room, it was across the hall but mine was the only room without an ensuite, I had it to myself. A shower again but very modern, very clean. I was quite happy. I arranged with Mrs. Watt for the taxi for pick-up the following day for my first hike and then made the 10-minute walk back into town for an early dinner. Cullen skink (you will have to google that to find out what it is--I'm not telling you) and oven baked haddock for dinner. So delicious.
Another view of the village taken from the road outside the b&b.
As I was enjoying the view of the bay, the sun came out and the sky turned from grey to blue almost before my eyes. These photos show the difference that light can make.
Walking up the road in the opposite direction, I watched the ferry to Skye leave. In the days I spent in Mallaig I became quite familiar with that ferry and the funny thing is that that patch of Skye almost always seemed to be in sunlight during the day.
Funny thing while I was eating at the restaurant: two couples came in wearing full Highland gear. Both men and women wearing kilts, the men with their hose and dirks and all. As soon as they opened their mouths I knew they were Americans and the impression was sealed when one of the men said "Chips with the haddock--is that potato chips or fries?" You can dress the part but.... From more eavesdropping, I learned that they had gone to the Highland Games in Arisaig, a village a few miles away. The waiter asked me if I was in town for the Games but I said I was here to do some hiking.
Now, as to the hiking. A few months ago I had decided that I would like to do some kind of walking tour while I was over in the UK. I looked up a number and Make Tracks had the most interesting, and least expensive. So I booked with them and they arranged for me to stay at b&bs at Mallaig and on the Isle of Eigg, one of the smaller Hebridean islands. They also sent me maps and a voucher for the ferry to Eigg and ensured that any transportation costs would be pre-paid (like taxis to and fromthe beginning of the trails).
I was about to see how it all was going to work but the first part--arriving at the b&b and finding that I was expected and that it was no problem to arrange a taxi--had worked fine. Good thing too as all of the b&bs in Mallaig were fully booked. As I walked back in the early evening, I was grateful for my room and a bed. I've been in the position of looking for somewhere to sleep and it's no fun when you're tired and in a strange place.
Before returning to the b&b however I walked around to the other side of the town and watched the sunlight on the water. Very quiet and beautiful.
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